Three Sides of Bali: Beach Clubs, Rice Fields and a Water Purification Ceremony

There's a particular kind of quiet that hits you on the 300th stone step into a Balinese valley, waterfall growing louder below. That moment, at COMO Shambhala Estate’s Kedara Water Garden, became the centre of gravity for a trip through three very different sides of Bali.

I split the stay across three COMO properties: Uma Canggu, Uma Ubud, and Shambhala Estate. Together they capture the island’s range, from beach club energy to warmth and slower rhythms, to a wellness retreat built around a sacred spring.

COMO Uma Canggu: Beach Club Energy, Serious Comfort

The transfer set the tone: a spotless car and a driver who checked the air-con and handed over water unasked.

Check-in was seamless. COMO sent a pre-arrival link to confirm details, so all I had to do was sign. I was soon in a one-bedroom Lagoon Residence with a full kitchen, walk-in robe and pool views, fridge stocked with complimentary juices and coconut water.

COMO Uma Canggu has 119 rooms: standard hotel rooms, one- and two-bedroom residences, and 12 three-bedroom penthouses. One-bedroom residences comfortably fit two adults and two children, with a kids’ club for ages 4 to 12.

I made it to a Hatha yoga class the next morning, and the instructor adjusted well for different ability levels, which isn’t always a given.

The real standout, though, was the COMO Beach Club, which is guests-only during high season. The food across two visits, including the best beef rendang of the trip, was excellent.

A guided drive introduced some of the area’s best restaurants, including Smoke, Fabbrica, Santorini, Masonry and Cocomo, clearly local favourites.

Lunch at Glow Restaurant, Uma Canggu’s health-forward concept led by chef Amanda Gale, was a spread of salads, chicken and frittata. Simple, but delicious.

I’d recommend the Signature Shambhala Massage here too. It uses COMO’s own Invigorate oil blend and was one of the most relaxing hours of the trip.

A Taste of COMO Uma Ubud

I only had a few hours at COMO Uma Ubud, but enough to see why it draws a different crowd. Around 70% of guests are couples, and the property leans into that with dinner specials and two complimentary daily activities.

The 46 rooms include king rooms that interconnect with twin rooms, and pool villas that do the same, which is useful for families wanting separate space. The spa mirrors Canggu’s.

Lunch was at Uma Cucina, possibly the best Italian food I’ve had outside Italy. Worth a stop even if Ubud is just a lunch break.

COMO Shambhala Estate: The Real Shift in Pace

Nothing quite prepares you for the scale of COMO Shambhala Estate until you’re standing in it. The property spans roughly 22 acres of forested hillside, laid out like a village, with accommodation clusters, spa zones, shared dining and spring pools, connected by pavilions.

Most rooms sit within five residences, essentially mini-hotels bookable room by room or taken over entirely, each with its own infinity pool and shared dining area. For full privacy there are standalone pool villas. I stayed in a Terrace Suite in Bayugita, aligned with local temples and a sacred spring, so wellness feels like the organising principle rather than a spa menu.

The wellness facilities are comprehensive: treatment pavilions, hydrotherapy pools, yoga and Pilates studios, a gym, sauna and steam rooms.

Dinner that first night was at Glow Restaurant again, the same concept as Canggu’s, but a different feel in this semi-open jungle pavilion.

The wellness consultation. Guests fill in a health form before arriving. My consultation with Dr Prasanth, the resident Ayurvedic doctor, covered sleep, digestion, stress and energy, building tailored recommendations. Complimentary for stays of three nights or more, it shapes the entire visit, whether that’s a detox, a rejuvenation, or a longer reset of nutrition, body therapies, yoga and breathwork.

I also fit in a Pilates session with instructor Mins, who, like the yoga instructor at Canggu, adjusted well for individual needs.

The water purification ceremony. This is the experience I’d point to if someone asked what made Shambhala Estate worth the trip. The descent to the Kedara Water Garden is around 300 stone steps past spring pools and dense canopy, steep but worth it. Guided by a Balinese priest, the ceremony is a cleansing ritual using water considered holy and mineral-rich, followed by a swim and picnic lunch.

That evening’s dinner was at Kudus House, home to restaurant “Rasa Nusantara,” set inside a 150-year-old Javanese teakwood residence. It felt less like a restaurant than an old private home, and one of the most atmospheric meals I’ve had.

On the two massage styles: the Shambhala massage is deeply relaxing, while the Taksu massage is more intense, focused on circulation and energy flow. For pure relaxation, go Shambhala.

The last full day was a 6–7km village and rice field bike ride, with hilly, off-road sections, and the guide kept a close eye on everyone.

How the Three Compare:

If you're trying to decide how to allocate your nights, here's roughly how I'd frame it:

Uma Canggu is the pick for beach club culture, easy access to Canggu’s restaurant scene, and flexibility for families.
Uma Ubud suits couples wanting a quieter, more romantic base, with some of the best Italian food in Southeast Asia.
Shambhala Estate is not a beach holiday with a spa attached; it’s an in-depth wellness retreat, rewarding at least three nights.

The Practical Bits

Book the wellness consultation in advance if staying three-plus nights at Shambhala. It’s complimentary, but fill out the health form properly beforehand.
Wear proper shoes for the Kedara Water Garden walk 300 steps down, and back up, is no joke in flip-flops.
If travelling with kids, base yourself at Canggu rather than Shambhala, since the retreat’s programming and pacing is built for adults.
Ask for a residence room at Shambhala if you like a social stay with shared pool and pavilion, or a pool villa for full privacy.
Don't skip Glow Restaurant wherever you find it. Same concept, different atmosphere, consistently excellent.

Three properties, six days, three truly different versions of what a Bali trip can be. You don’t need all three. Pairing Canggu with either Ubud or Shambhala works just as well, whether you want romance or a proper reset.

Book by 30th September for up to 30% off!

Contact Bec for more information: bec@jbd.travel / 0494 559 592

Contact Bec for more information